Chulu West (6,419 m) stands north of the Manang valley above Ngawal, and its summit is the great viewpoint of the whole Annapurna range: Annapurna II, III and IV, Gangapurna, Tilicho and Manaslu laid out across a valley two kilometres deep, with the Tibetan plateau running north behind you.
The climbing is a genuine PD+ — a glacier approach, a snow and ice slope at 40 to 45 degrees on fixed rope, and a broad summit ridge. What makes the trip unusual is that it is built around the Annapurna Circuit: you walk in through Chame and Pisang on the high route past the medieval villages of Ghyaru and Ngawal, climb the peak, and then walk out over the Thorong La (5,416 m) to Muktinath and Jomsom.
It is a climbing trip and one of Nepal's great treks in the same nineteen days.
The Climb at a Glance
| Summit | 6,419 m |
| Grade | PD+ — glacier, 40–45° ice on fixed rope, broad summit ridge |
| Duration | 19 days Kathmandu to Kathmandu |
| Base camp / high camp | 4,700 m / 5,300 m |
| Summit success rate | Around 80 to 85 percent on our departures |
| Best seasons | March to May, September to November |
| Permits | NMA climbing permit, ACAP and TIMS — all included |
| Price | From USD 3,150 per person |
We run it as a 19-day expedition. The Chulu Far East climb is the easier introduction and Chulu East the harder step up.
The Route
The approach — Dharapani to Ngawal (1,860 m to 3,660 m)
A jeep to Dharapani via Besisahar, then four days up the Marsyangdi on the Annapurna Circuit: Chame, Upper Pisang, and the high route past Ghyaru and Ngawal — medieval Tibetan villages on a shelf above the valley, with the Annapurnas directly opposite. An acclimatisation day at Ngawal.
Base camp and the training day (4,700 m)
A day's climb into the valley above Ngawal to base camp, with porters and pack animals carrying the group equipment. A full training day follows: crampons, ice axe, rope-team travel, fixed-line ascent and abseil technique. This is not a formality — the glacier is crevassed and the group moves roped.
High camp and the summit (5,300 m to 6,419 m)
High camp at 5,300 m on the moraine below the glacier, then a pre-dawn start. The glacier crossing weaves between crevasses on a roped team, then a 40 to 45 degree snow and ice slope on fixed line laid by the climbing Sherpas, and a broad summit ridge to the top.
Out over the Thorong La (5,416 m)
Down to Manang, then Yak Kharka, Thorong Phedi and over the Thorong La to Muktinath — a long day with around 1,000 m of ascent and a 1,600 m descent, but straightforward on a body that has just been to 6,419 m. Then Jomsom and a flight to Pokhara.
How Hard Is It Really?
PD+ is a real grade but an achievable one for a fit trekker with some winter experience. The comparison people usually want is Island Peak:
| Chulu West | Island Peak | |
|---|---|---|
| Summit | 6,419 m | 6,189 m |
| The difficulty | Spread across a glacier and a long 40–45° slope | Concentrated in one 100 m ice headwall |
| Crevasse risk | Real — roped team travel required | Lower on the standard route |
| Approach | The Annapurna Circuit high route | The Khumbu via Lukla |
| Success rate | 80–85% | Comparable |
The high success rate reflects the acclimatisation profile: the Circuit approach walks you up gradually over five days before base camp, which is a far better preparation than most peaks get. See our beginner's guide to peak climbing and the fixed rope and jumar guide.
What It Costs
| Group size | Price per person |
|---|---|
| 1 climber | USD 3,840 |
| 2 to 4 | USD 3,560 |
| 5 to 7 | USD 3,370 |
| 8 to 10 | USD 3,280 |
| 11 to 14 | USD 3,200 |
| 15 and over | USD 3,150 |
The largest cost inside that is the climbing staff ratio — one climbing Sherpa for every two climbers above base camp — plus their equipment, wages and insurance.
What Is Included
- Airport pickup and drop-off in Kathmandu, and a climbing briefing, permit and equipment-check day.
- Private jeep Kathmandu to Dharapani, the Jomsom–Pokhara flight (jeep as the weather alternative), and Pokhara to Kathmandu.
- Two nights in Kathmandu and one in Pokhara with breakfast; teahouses on the approach and walk out.
- Tented accommodation at base camp and high camp with mess, kitchen and toilet tents, and a cook and kitchen crew.
- Three meals a day throughout the trip.
- NMA climbing permit for Chulu West, ACAP and TIMS.
- A government-licensed climbing guide and one climbing Sherpa per two climbers above base camp, with their equipment, wages and insurance.
- Group climbing equipment — fixed and main ropes, snow bars, ice screws and anchors — and fixing of the ice slope ahead of the summit push.
- A full training day at base camp.
- Porter and pack-animal transport of group equipment from Ngawal to base camp.
- NMA garbage deposit, summit certificate, group map, first aid kit, and all taxes and service charges.
What Is Not Included
- International flights and the Nepal entry visa fee.
- Travel insurance covering mountaineering to 6,419 m, with helicopter evacuation and repatriation. Check the altitude ceiling.
- Personal climbing equipment — harness, crampons, ice axe, ascender, descender, helmet and carabiners. Available to rent as an add-on.
- Personal trekking equipment and clothing, including boots and a sleeping bag.
- Porter services for your personal duffel, available at additional cost.
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu and Pokhara.
- Snacks, bottled water, hot showers, Wi-Fi, charging and drinks.
- Laundry, phone calls, souvenirs and personal expenses.
- Tips for the guide, climbing Sherpas, porters and support staff.
- Extra accommodation or transport caused by weather, flight delays or an early descent.
