Everest Expedition
Everest (8,849 m) from the Nepal side, by the South Col route that Hillary and Tenzing pioneered in 1953. It is not the
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Trip Overview
Everest (8,849 m) from the Nepal side, by the South Col route that Hillary and Tenzing pioneered in 1953. It is not the hardest climbing in the Himalaya and nobody who has been there pretends otherwise — the technical crux, the Hillary Step, is a short section most competent alpinists would walk past at sea level. What Everest asks for is something else: the capacity to keep functioning, decide well and move safely through the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm and the Death Zone above 8,000 m, over fifty-one days, four times.
We run it the way it should be run. Two full acclimatisation rotations before the summit push, a recovery descent to Pheriche in the middle, a generous weather-window wait, and four reserve days at the end. One dedicated climbing Sherpa per client throughout, a stated oxygen allocation rather than a vague one, and a leader whose authority to turn a climber round is absolute. The expeditions that get people up and down safely are the ones with days in hand and no incentive to spend them.
Trip Highlights
Summit Everest (8,849 m): The highest point on earth, by the South Col route of the 1953 first ascent.
Two Full Acclimatisation Rotations: Camp 1 and Camp 2, then a Camp 3 touch at 7,200 m, before the summit push is even considered.
Recovery Descent to Pheriche: A deliberate week of thick air mid-expedition, which does more for summit day than another night at base camp.
One Climbing Sherpa Per Client: A dedicated 1:1 Sherpa from base camp to the summit, with a stated oxygen allocation.
Four Reserve Days: Genuine room for a second summit window, rather than one attempt and a flight home.
Itinerary
A 51-day expedition on Everest (8,849 m) by the South Col route, with two full acclimatisation rotations, a recovery descent to Pheriche, a dedicated 1:1 climbing Sherpa, seven bottles of oxygen and four reserve days.
1Day 1Arrival in Nepal – Kathmandu (1,400 m)
Arrival in Nepal – Kathmandu (1,400 m)
You land at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu (1,400 m), where our representative meets you in the arrivals hall and drives you to your hotel.
Rest is the only item on today's schedule. Most climbers arrive with two or three duffels of equipment shipped or carried in; unpack tonight and lay everything out, because the next two days are spent turning it into a working expedition load.
Your expedition leader calls at the hotel in the evening to introduce themselves and set the plan for the morning. Overnight in Kathmandu.
2Day 2Kathmandu (1,400 m) – Expedition Briefing and Equipment Inspection
Kathmandu (1,400 m) – Expedition Briefing and Equipment Inspection
A full working day. Your leader takes the fifty-one day plan apart stage by stage — the approach, base camp, the rotations, the oxygen plan, the summit window and the reserve days — and then goes through the route itself.
The equipment inspection is item by item and takes hours: boots, crampons, harness, ascender, belay device, screwgates, down suit, mitts, goggles, headlamps and batteries. Anything missing or unsuitable is bought or hired in Kathmandu today, not discovered at 7,000 m.
Your oxygen mask and regulator are fitted and tested against your own face and hood, which is the single most useful hour of the day. Overnight in Kathmandu.
3Day 3Kathmandu (1,400 m) – Ministry Briefing, Permits and Final Preparations
Kathmandu (1,400 m) – Ministry Briefing, Permits and Final Preparations
The formal side of an expedition. The team attends the briefing at the Department of Tourism with the liaison officer, where the permit is issued, the rules are read out and the waste-management deposit is registered.
Meanwhile the expedition cargo is weighed, sealed into barrels and dispatched — some by air to Lukla, the rest by helicopter sling load or yak, depending on the season and the weight.
The afternoon is free, and it is the last one for two months with hot water, restaurants and thick air. Most climbers use it for the last phone calls home rather than for sightseeing. Overnight in Kathmandu.
4Day 4Fly to Lukla (2,840 m) and Trek to Phakding (2,610 m)
Fly to Lukla (2,840 m) and Trek to Phakding (2,610 m)
An early flight into Lukla (2,840 m) — thirty-five minutes from Kathmandu, or a pre-dawn drive to Manthali and a twenty-minute hop when the peak-season schedule applies.
The expedition load is divided between porters and yaks over tea, which on a trip of this size takes a good part of the morning and involves a great deal of cheerful arguing.
The trail drops north through Chaurikharka and Ghat to Phakding (2,610 m), past mani walls and water-driven prayer wheels. Around 3 to 4 hours. Overnight at Phakding.
5Day 5Trek from Phakding (2,610 m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)
Trek from Phakding (2,610 m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)
Five prayer-flagged suspension bridges across the Dudh Koshi, then a climb through blue pine to Monjo and the Sagarmatha National Park entrance.
Past Jorsalle the Hillary Bridge crosses high above the confluence, and beyond it the trail turns uphill for 600 m of steady work, with a first view of Everest over the Nuptse–Lhotse ridge partway up on a clear morning.
Namche Bazaar (3,440 m) is the last town — bakeries, an ATM, gear shops and a hot shower. Around 6 hours. Overnight at Namche.
6Day 6Acclimatisation Day at Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)
Acclimatisation Day at Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)
Climb high, sleep low. The morning walk goes up to the Everest View Hotel (3,880 m), whose terrace looks straight up the valley at Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam.
From there to Khumjung and Khunde beneath Khumbi Yul Lha, past the monastery with its disputed yeti scalp and the hospital built by Edmund Hillary's foundation in 1966, which is still the referral point for the whole valley.
The afternoon is free. Your leader takes the first oxygen saturation and resting pulse readings tonight, and will keep taking them daily for the next two months. Around 4 hours. Overnight at Namche.
7Day 7Trek from Namche Bazaar (3,440 m) to Tengboche (3,860 m)
Trek from Namche Bazaar (3,440 m) to Tengboche (3,860 m)
Two hours of near-level balcony trail out of Namche, high above the Dudh Koshi, with Ama Dablam ahead almost the whole way.
At Phunki Thenga the trail drops to the river and climbs 600 m through rhododendron and birch to the saddle.
Tengboche (3,860 m) holds the largest monastery in the Khumbu. Every Everest expedition since the 1950s has stopped here, and many take a blessing from the Rinpoche before going up the valley. The afternoon ceremony is open to visitors. Around 5 to 6 hours. Overnight at Tengboche.
8Day 8Trek from Tengboche (3,860 m) to Dingboche (4,410 m)
Trek from Tengboche (3,860 m) to Dingboche (4,410 m)
Down through Deboche, over the Imja Khola above a narrow gorge, and up to Pangboche (3,930 m), the oldest permanent Sherpa settlement in the Khumbu and home to a great many of the climbing Sherpas working on the mountain this season.
Above Pangboche the last trees give out and the valley opens into a wide grey trough of moraine and grazing land, walled by Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Taboche.
Dingboche (4,410 m) sits among stone-walled potato and barley fields at the junction of the Imja and Khumbu valleys. Around 5 hours. Overnight at Dingboche.
9Day 9Acclimatisation Day at Dingboche (4,410 m) – Nangkartshang (5,083 m)
Acclimatisation Day at Dingboche (4,410 m) – Nangkartshang (5,083 m)
The first time above 5,000 m. We climb the ridge behind the village to Nangkartshang (5,083 m) — steep and non-technical, two to three hours on scree and rock.
Makalu appears over the eastern ridge, with Lhotse, Island Peak, Taboche and Cholatse arranged around you. On an expedition this is also the first honest read on how each climber is adapting, and your leader watches the group as much as the view.
Back for a late lunch and rest. Four litres of water, more food than anyone feels like, and an evening saturation check. Around 4 to 5 hours. Overnight at Dingboche.
10Day 10Trek from Dingboche (4,410 m) to Lobuche (4,940 m)
Trek from Dingboche (4,410 m) to Lobuche (4,940 m)
North-west onto a broad ridge, then along the shelf above the Pheriche valley to Thukla (4,620 m) and the steep pull up the terminal moraine of the Khumbu glacier.
The top of that climb is the Thukla memorial — a field of stone chortens and plaques for climbers who died on Everest and the peaks around it, including Scott Fischer and Babu Chiri Sherpa. Every expedition walks through it on the way up, and it is a quiet twenty minutes.
Lobuche (4,940 m) is a handful of lodges on the moraine beside the glacier. Around 5 hours. Overnight at Lobuche.
11Day 11Acclimatisation Day at Lobuche (4,940 m)
Acclimatisation Day at Lobuche (4,940 m)
A deliberate extra night below 5,000 m before committing to base camp. The morning is an acclimatisation walk up the ridge behind the lodges toward Lobuche East, gaining 400 to 500 m and coming back down.
The afternoon is rest, and for most people a slightly uneasy one — from tomorrow the expedition proper begins, and there is nothing left to prepare.
Your leader reviews saturation readings and appetite across the team tonight. Anyone whose numbers are drifting the wrong way spends an extra day here rather than starting the expedition already behind. Around 4 hours. Overnight at Lobuche.
12Day 12Trek from Lobuche (4,940 m) to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Trek from Lobuche (4,940 m) to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
North along the lateral moraine of the Khumbu glacier to Gorak Shep (5,164 m), the last flat ground and the site of the 1953 base camp, then out onto the glacier itself.
The final two hours pick a line through ice pinnacles and rubble, following the cairns and the yak trail, with the Khumbu Icefall ahead getting steadily more legible — and steadily less abstract.
Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) is a small city of tents on the moraine, and ours is already standing when you arrive. Your leader shows you the camp, the routine and the radio schedule. Around 5 hours. Overnight at base camp.
13Day 13Base Camp (5,364 m) – Settling In and Systems Check
Base Camp (5,364 m) – Settling In and Systems Check
A day of low effort and a great deal of quiet organisation. Personal tents are set up properly, the mess tent routine and mealtimes are established, and the charging, water and toilet arrangements are explained.
Your leader runs the oxygen systems check: mask, regulator and hose fitted to your own face and hood again, at altitude this time, and the flow rates and changeover drill walked through.
The afternoon is spent walking gently on the moraine and doing nothing strenuous. At 5,364 m the first two days are about letting the body catch up, not about proving anything. Overnight at base camp.
14Day 14Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
The puja, and on Everest it is not optional. A lama comes up from Pangboche, a stone chorten is built, juniper is burned, and every piece of climbing equipment on the expedition — axes, crampons, harnesses, boots, oxygen masks — is stacked at the altar to be blessed.
No Sherpa on our team will set foot in the Khumbu Icefall before it has been done. Prayer flags are strung from the chorten out across the camp, rice is thrown, and the ceremony usually finishes with chang and dancing.
It matters practically as well as spiritually: it is the day the whole team, climbers and Sherpas together, first behaves like one group. Overnight at base camp.
15Day 15Base Camp (5,364 m) – Icefall Ladder and Fixed-Rope Training
Base Camp (5,364 m) – Icefall Ladder and Fixed-Rope Training
A full working day on the ice near camp. Ladders are laid over crevasses and rigged with hand lines, and every climber crosses them repeatedly in crampons until it stops being interesting — first horizontal, then angled, then two lashed together with a bend in the middle.
Alongside that: jumaring on fixed line, changing over at anchors, abseiling, and arresting a slip on hard ice. The changeover drill gets the most repetition, because in the Icefall you will do it several hundred times and it has to be automatic.
Your leader watches each climber and keeps anyone who needs it back for the afternoon. Overnight at base camp.
16Day 16Rest Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Rest Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
A genuine rest day before the first rotation. Eating, drinking and sleeping, with a short walk on the moraine in the afternoon and nothing more.
The Icefall Doctors — the Sherpa team employed by the SPCC to fix and maintain the route through the Icefall each season — have been working since early April, and today your leader confirms with them and with the other expeditions that the route is open and stable to Camp 1.
Loads for the rotation are packed and weighed in the evening, and the departure time is set for something around two in the morning. Overnight at base camp.
17Day 17First Rotation – Climb the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 (6,065 m)
First Rotation – Climb the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 (6,065 m)
Out of camp between two and three in the morning, in the cold, because the Khumbu Icefall is at its most stable before the sun reaches it.
What follows is five to seven hours of the most concentrated ground on the mountain: a collapsing, refreezing jumble of seracs and crevasses, crossed on aluminium ladders lashed end to end and climbed on fixed rope, with the route changing week to week as the glacier moves. You clip, cross, unclip, and keep moving. Nobody stops in the exposed sections.
The Icefall relents at the top and opens into the flat white bowl at the entrance to the Western Cwm. Camp 1 (6,065 m) stands on the snow there. Overnight at Camp 1.
18Day 18First Rotation – Climb from Camp 1 (6,065 m) to Camp 2 (6,400 m)
First Rotation – Climb from Camp 1 (6,065 m) to Camp 2 (6,400 m)
A short day and a strange one. The Western Cwm is a broad, almost level glacier basin walled by Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse, and it is one of the hottest places on the mountain — the sun reflects off three walls of snow with nowhere for the heat to go, and a windless morning here can reach 30°C.
The route weaves between crevasses on fixed line for three to four hours, with the Lhotse Face growing ahead all the way.
Camp 2 (6,400 m) sits on the moraine at the foot of that face and serves as the expedition's advance base camp — a cook tent, a dining tent and sleeping tents, staffed for the season. Overnight at Camp 2.
19Day 19First Rotation – Acclimatisation Day at Camp 2 (6,400 m)
First Rotation – Acclimatisation Day at Camp 2 (6,400 m)
A day at 6,400 m doing very little, which is exactly the point of a rotation. Sleeping at this altitude is what the body has to learn to do, and it learns it by being made to.
In the morning the team walks an hour or so up toward the bergschrund at the foot of the Lhotse Face and back, to look at the ground the next rotation will climb and to gain a little height.
The rest of the day is spent in the dining tent, drinking and forcing food down. Appetite falls off sharply above 6,000 m, and eating badly here is what leaves climbers short three weeks later. Overnight at Camp 2.
20Day 20First Rotation – Descend from Camp 2 (6,400 m) to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
First Rotation – Descend from Camp 2 (6,400 m) to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
An early start down the Cwm to Camp 1 and then back through the Icefall, timed once again to be out of it before the sun softens the seracs.
Descending the Icefall is faster than climbing it and no less demanding of attention — the ladders are crossed facing forward with the hand lines taut, and tired legs are the usual cause of trouble.
Base camp (5,364 m) by late morning. The first rotation is done: the team has slept at 6,400 m and crossed the Icefall twice, and everybody now knows what that involves. Overnight at base camp.
21Day 21Rest Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Rest Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
The first of three recovery days, and the hardest one to spend well because most people feel worse today than they did yesterday. That is normal — the fatigue of a rotation arrives late.
The prescription is unglamorous: sleep, drink four to five litres, and eat considerably more than you want to. The cook crew works hard on appetite at this stage of an expedition and the menu improves accordingly.
Your leader takes saturation and pulse readings and reviews them against the baseline from Namche. Anyone whose numbers or weight are dropping gets a conversation rather than a schedule. Overnight at base camp.
22Day 22Rest Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Rest Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
The second recovery day, and the one on which people generally start feeling human again. Base camp settles into its rhythm: breakfast late, cards and reading in the dining tent, a walk to another team's camp in the afternoon, dinner early.
There is work going on around you. The Sherpa team is carrying loads through the Icefall to stock Camp 2 and Camp 3 with tents, oxygen, food and fuel, and the route-fixing team is working its way up the Lhotse Face toward the South Col.
The evening weather briefing in the communications tent becomes a fixture from about now, and the whole camp starts paying attention to it. Overnight at base camp.
23Day 23Rest Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Rest Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
The last day before the second rotation, spent on preparation rather than effort. Personal loads are packed for four nights above base camp, crampons and harnesses are checked after their first hard use, and boots are dried properly.
Your leader briefs the rotation in detail: base camp straight through to Camp 2 in one push this time, a rest day there, and then a climb of the Lhotse Face to touch Camp 3 at 7,200 m before returning.
The Camp 3 touch is the single most valuable piece of acclimatisation in the expedition, and it is also the first time the team is on genuinely steep ground at altitude. Departure is set for the small hours. Overnight at base camp.
24Day 24Second Rotation – Climb from Base Camp (5,364 m) to Camp 2 (6,400 m)
Second Rotation – Climb from Base Camp (5,364 m) to Camp 2 (6,400 m)
A long day, and a demonstration of how far the acclimatisation has come. The Icefall that took six or seven hours on the first rotation now takes four or five, and the team pushes straight on through Camp 1 and up the Western Cwm without stopping for the night.
Eight to ten hours in total from base camp, most of it in the dark and the cold at the start and in the reflected furnace of the Cwm at the end.
Camp 2 (6,400 m) in the afternoon, where the cook crew has been in residence for a fortnight and there is hot soup waiting. Overnight at Camp 2.
25Day 25Second Rotation – Rest Day at Camp 2 (6,400 m)
Second Rotation – Rest Day at Camp 2 (6,400 m)
A rest day at 6,400 m, which sounds restful and is not — this is roughly the altitude of Denali, and doing nothing here is still work.
The morning is spent sorting the kit for tomorrow and, for most people, staring at the Lhotse Face. It is 1,000 m of blue ice at 40 to 50 degrees, with the tents of Camp 3 visible as coloured specks on ledges cut into the middle of it, and it looks improbable from below.
Your leader goes through the fixed-rope traffic protocol for the face: which side to pass on, how to clip past an anchor with people above and below, and what to do if something comes down. Overnight at Camp 2.
26Day 26Second Rotation – Climb the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 (7,200 m) and Return to Camp 2
Second Rotation – Climb the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 (7,200 m) and Return to Camp 2
The hardest day of the acclimatisation programme and the one that most determines who summits. From the bergschrund the Lhotse Face rises as hard blue ice at 40 to 50 degrees, climbed entirely on fixed rope with a jumar.
It is four to six hours of unrelenting work, front-pointing on ice that takes crampons well and forgives nothing, with the Cwm dropping away below and no comfortable place to stop anywhere on it.
Camp 3 (7,200 m) is a row of tents on platforms hacked into the face itself. The team touches it, spends an hour or so there, and then abseils and down-climbs back to Camp 2 — this rotation is about the altitude reached, not the night spent.
Back at Camp 2 in the late afternoon, thoroughly worked. Overnight at Camp 2.
27Day 27Second Rotation – Descend from Camp 2 (6,400 m) to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Second Rotation – Descend from Camp 2 (6,400 m) to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Down the Western Cwm and through the Icefall in the cold of the morning, reaching base camp before the sun is properly on the seracs.
The acclimatisation programme is now complete. The team has slept at 6,400 m twice and touched 7,200 m, and physiologically there is nothing more to be gained from going higher until the summit push.
Base camp (5,364 m) by midday, and the mood changes noticeably: the work of preparation is finished and everything from here is waiting on weather. Overnight at base camp.
28Day 28Recovery Descent from Base Camp (5,364 m) to Pheriche (4,371 m)
Recovery Descent from Base Camp (5,364 m) to Pheriche (4,371 m)
Down the glacier and the moraine to Pheriche (4,371 m), losing a thousand metres and gaining what feels like a completely different atmosphere.
This descent is one of the most valuable decisions in the plan and one of the most commonly skipped. Recovery does not happen at 5,364 m. Six weeks at base camp erodes a climber steadily; a few days at 4,371 m in thicker air, eating real food and sleeping properly, rebuilds one.
Pheriche has lodges with beds, hot showers, bakeries and the Himalayan Rescue Association clinic. Around 5 to 6 hours. Overnight at Pheriche.
29Day 29Recovery Day at Pheriche (4,371 m)
Recovery Day at Pheriche (4,371 m)
A day with nothing in it, deliberately. Sleep late, eat everything on the menu, take a hot shower, and walk no further than the bakery.
Most climbers regain a kilogram or two here and, more importantly, sleep properly for the first time in weeks. The improvement in appetite alone is usually obvious within twenty-four hours.
Meanwhile at base camp the Sherpa team is stocking the South Col — carrying oxygen, tents, food and fuel to Camp 4 at 7,950 m, which is the heaviest and most dangerous work of the entire expedition and is done by people who will then climb it again with you. Overnight at Pheriche.
30Day 30Return from Pheriche (4,371 m) to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Return from Pheriche (4,371 m) to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Back up the valley through Thukla, past the memorial chortens, and along the moraine to base camp — the same ground as the walk in, done now by a body that handles it very differently.
The climb takes five to six hours and is a useful gauge: climbers who come up feeling strong are ready, and those who struggle are told so and given more time.
Base camp (5,364 m) in the afternoon. From tonight the expedition is entirely governed by the forecast, and the evening weather briefing becomes the most attended event of the day. Overnight at base camp.
31Day 31Weather Window Wait at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Weather Window Wait at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
The waiting starts, and it is a real part of an Everest expedition rather than dead time. The jet stream sits on the summit for most of the year, and the season's windows appear when it lifts — usually somewhere between the tenth and twenty-fifth of May.
Days are spent eating, sleeping, walking gently on the moraine and visiting other camps. Most teams are doing the same thing, and base camp is unusually sociable in this period.
The evening brings the specialist mountain forecast, read out in the communications tent: wind speed at 8,000 m, temperature, precipitation and the confidence attached to each. Your leader cross-checks it against what other expeditions are seeing. Overnight at base camp.
32Day 32Weather Window Wait at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Weather Window Wait at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
More waiting, and the discipline of it is not to burn energy. Climbers who fill these days with long walks to keep busy arrive at the South Col with less in reserve than those who read a book.
There is one useful piece of work: your leader reviews the oxygen plan with each climber individually — flow rates from Camp 3, at the Col, on summit day, and the changeover points where bottles are swapped and cached for the descent.
Masks and regulators are checked one final time against your own hood and goggles, because a mask that ices or leaks at 8,500 m is a very serious problem. Overnight at base camp.
33Day 33Summit Briefing and Final Preparations at Base Camp (5,364 m)
Summit Briefing and Final Preparations at Base Camp (5,364 m)
The full summit briefing, and it is the most important two hours of the expedition. Your leader sets out the schedule day by day, the pairings of climber and Sherpa, the radio times, the oxygen changeover points, and the turnaround time on summit day.
The turnaround time is stated as a hard number and it is not negotiable on the ridge. Most accidents on Everest happen on the descent, to people who summited late.
Traffic is also planned. If the forecast window is one that every team on the mountain is aiming at, your leader may choose to go a day either side of it rather than queue at the Hillary Step, and the reserve days exist to make that possible. Overnight at base camp.
34Day 34Final Weather Wait at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Final Weather Wait at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
The last day at base camp before the push, and by now the forecast has firmed up enough to commit. Loads are packed for six nights above base camp, down suits are unpacked and checked, and boots are warmed.
The Sherpa team confirms that Camp 4 is stocked, the route is fixed to the summit and the ropes are in condition. Nothing about the push begins until all three are true.
Dinner is early and the camp is quiet. Departure through the Icefall is set for around two in the morning, and most people do not sleep much. Overnight at base camp.
35Day 35Summit Push – Climb from Base Camp (5,364 m) to Camp 2 (6,400 m)
Summit Push – Climb from Base Camp (5,364 m) to Camp 2 (6,400 m)
Into the Icefall for the last time on the way up, at two in the morning, and through it faster than ever — the acclimatisation is complete and the ground is entirely familiar.
Straight on through Camp 1 and up the Western Cwm to Camp 2 (6,400 m), seven to nine hours in total, arriving in the reflected heat of the early afternoon.
The rest of the day is spent lying down, drinking and eating. From here the expedition moves upward every day until it summits or turns back. Overnight at Camp 2.
36Day 36Summit Push – Rest Day at Camp 2 (6,400 m)
Summit Push – Rest Day at Camp 2 (6,400 m)
A rest day at 6,400 m built into the push, because arriving at Camp 3 tired is how climbers end up short at the South Col two days later.
The day is spent in the dining tent forcing fluid and food. Appetite at this altitude is close to nonexistent and eating becomes an act of discipline rather than pleasure; your leader will nag, and it is worth being nagged.
In the evening the forecast is checked one final time. If the window has shifted, the team waits here rather than climbing into it — Camp 2 is a perfectly good place to sit for a day and the Col is not. Overnight at Camp 2.
37Day 37Summit Push – Climb the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 (7,200 m)
Summit Push – Climb the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 (7,200 m)
The Lhotse Face again, and this time the team stays. Four to six hours of front-pointing on hard blue ice at 40 to 50 degrees, entirely on fixed rope, with loads heavier than on the rotation.
Camp 3 (7,200 m) is a row of tents on ledges chopped out of the face. The tents are half-suspended, everyone stays clipped in even inside them, and going outside at night is a roped operation.
This is the first night on supplementary oxygen — a low sleeping flow, which makes an enormous difference to how the night goes and to how the following day starts. Overnight at Camp 3.
38Day 38Summit Push – Climb to the South Col, Camp 4 (7,950 m)
Summit Push – Climb to the South Col, Camp 4 (7,950 m)
On oxygen from the moment you leave the tent. The route continues up the Lhotse Face and then traverses right across the Yellow Band, a belt of sedimentary rock climbed in crampons on fixed line, and the Geneva Spur, a black rock buttress that is the last obstacle before the Col.
Five to seven hours brings the team onto the South Col (7,950 m) — a wide, flat, wind-scoured plateau of rock and ice between Everest and Lhotse, and one of the bleakest places on earth. It is littered with the remains of decades of expeditions and it is never still.
You are now in the Death Zone, where the body cannot acclimatise and simply degrades. Nobody sleeps. The team rests on oxygen, melts snow, forces fluid, and waits for the departure time. Overnight at Camp 4.
39Day 39Summit Everest (8,849 m) and Descend to Camp 2 (6,400 m)
Summit Everest (8,849 m) and Descend to Camp 2 (6,400 m)
Leaving the Col somewhere between eight and eleven at night, in the dark, on oxygen, at around -30°C. The Triangular Face rises above camp in a long fixed-rope slog to the Balcony (8,400 m), where the first bottle change is made and where a great many turn-backs happen.
Above the Balcony the south-east ridge narrows, exposed on both sides, and climbs to the South Summit (8,750 m). Then the traverse, and the Hillary Step — technically a short piece of ground and, at that altitude with traffic on it, a serious bottleneck.
The final ridge is a gentle snow crest, and then there is nowhere higher to go. The summit (8,849 m) is a small dome hung with prayer flags, looking across Tibet to the north and down on the whole Himalaya to the south. Fifteen minutes is a long stay.
Then down, and the descent is where the danger is. Back along the ridge, down the Step and the Face to the Col, a short rest, and on down to Camp 2 if the party has the reserves. Sixteen to twenty hours of movement. Overnight at Camp 2.
40Day 40Descend from Camp 2 (6,400 m) to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Descend from Camp 2 (6,400 m) to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Down the Western Cwm and through the Khumbu Icefall for the last time — the final and, statistically, one of the more dangerous acts of the expedition, done on legs that have very little left.
The team goes early and goes carefully. Ladders are crossed one at a time, nobody hurries and nobody stops in the exposed ground.
Base camp (5,364 m), and the moment of walking off the glacier onto the moraine at the end of a summit push is one that most Everest climbers remember more clearly than the summit itself. Overnight at base camp.
41Day 41First Reserve Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
First Reserve Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
The first of four reserve days. In a good season they are spent resting and then walking out early; in most seasons at least one of them is used.
They exist because Everest's summit windows are few and short. A team that has committed everything to a single forecast and been turned back at the Balcony by wind has no expedition left; a team with four days in hand has a second attempt.
If a second push is on, the Sherpa team re-stocks the Col and the climbers rest here today. Your leader assesses each climber honestly — a second summit push after a turned-back first one is only offered to people who came down with something in reserve. Overnight at base camp.
42Day 42Second Reserve Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Second Reserve Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
The second reserve day. If a second attempt is running, the team is at Camp 2 tonight rather than here, and this day and the next are the climb to Camp 3 and the Col.
If the mountain has been climbed, the day is spent eating, sleeping and beginning the long process of feeling normal again. Most climbers lose between five and ten kilograms over an Everest expedition and the recovery starts here.
The camp begins to thin out around now as teams finish and leave, and the yak trains start arriving to carry loads down. Overnight at base camp.
43Day 43Third Reserve Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Third Reserve Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
The third reserve day, and the point at which the season's arithmetic becomes clear: either the summit has been reached, or a second window is being climbed, or the expedition is over.
Whichever it is, your leader will say so plainly. Everest does not reward optimism at this stage, and a leader who keeps a tired team on the mountain past the last honest window is the single most dangerous thing on it.
If the expedition is finished, today is when the higher camps come down: Camp 4, Camp 3 and Camp 2 are stripped by the Sherpa team, and everything comes off the mountain. Overnight at base camp.
44Day 44Fourth Reserve Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Fourth Reserve Day at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
The last reserve day and the end of the expedition's margin. In a season with a late window this is the summit day; in most it is not needed and is spent packing.
The waste management is done properly today and it is a substantial job. Every expedition is required to bring down what it took up, and the Department of Tourism deposit is refunded against it. Human waste from base camp is carried out in barrels, oxygen bottles are counted back in, and the site is cleared.
The chorten built at the puja stays, with its prayer flags. Everything else goes. Overnight at base camp.
45Day 45Break Camp at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
Break Camp at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
The last day at base camp. Tents come down, barrels are packed and weighed, and the yak train assembles on the moraine to carry six weeks of expedition back down the valley.
It is a long day of unglamorous work and it is also when the team says goodbye to the base camp crew — the cook, the kitchen boys and the camp staff who have run the place for six weeks and who most climbers will remember as fondly as anyone.
A final look up at the Icefall, which by now looks entirely different from the way it did in April. Overnight at base camp.
46Day 46Trek from Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) to Pheriche (4,371 m)
Trek from Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) to Pheriche (4,371 m)
Off the glacier and down the moraine past Gorak Shep and Lobuche, then the steep descent beside the glacier snout to Thukla and the memorial chortens.
Walking through that memorial field on the way down, at the end of a season, is a very different experience from walking through it on the way up.
Pheriche (4,371 m) in the afternoon, with beds, hot showers, bakeries and a menu. Around 6 hours. Overnight at Pheriche.
47Day 47Trek from Pheriche (4,371 m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)
Trek from Pheriche (4,371 m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)
Down the Khumbu valley through Pangboche, where many of your Sherpa team live and where several will peel off to go home, and on through Deboche to the Tengboche saddle.
The trees come back below Tengboche — rhododendron in flower in late May — and with them birdsong, warmth and air that after six weeks feels almost thick enough to chew.
The steep drop to Phunki Thenga and the balcony trail bring you to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m). Around 7 to 8 hours. Overnight at Namche.
48Day 48Trek from Namche Bazaar (3,440 m) to Lukla (2,840 m)
Trek from Namche Bazaar (3,440 m) to Lukla (2,840 m)
The last walking day. Steeply down from Namche to the Hillary Bridge, then along the Dudh Koshi through Jorsalle and Monjo, where you check out of the national park.
Through Phakding and past the mani walls, then the final climb to Lukla (2,840 m).
The evening is the end-of-expedition dinner with the leader, the climbing Sherpas, the cook crew and the porters, and the point at which the summit bonus and tips are given. On Everest the Sherpa team crossed the Icefall many more times than you did, carrying more; the thanks should reflect that. Around 6 to 7 hours. Overnight at Lukla.
49Day 49Fly from Lukla (2,840 m) to Kathmandu (1,400 m)
Fly from Lukla (2,840 m) to Kathmandu (1,400 m)
Lukla flights leave early, before the valley wind builds. Thirty-five minutes to Kathmandu, or a landing at Manthali with a road transfer onward when the schedule requires it.
Delays are routine rather than exceptional and can run to a full day, which is why the itinerary carries a spare day in Kathmandu at the end. If Lukla closes entirely, a helicopter seat can usually be arranged and your leader handles it.
The afternoon is free. A long shower, a proper meal, and the strange business of being at 1,400 m with more oxygen than you know what to do with. Overnight in Kathmandu.
50Day 50Rest Day in Kathmandu (1,400 m) and Summit Certificate
Rest Day in Kathmandu (1,400 m) and Summit Certificate
A spare day in Kathmandu, which exists partly for the Lukla weather and partly because nobody should fly home the morning after coming off Everest.
The formal business is completed today: the expedition reports to the Department of Tourism, the waste deposit is reconciled, and the summit certificate is issued and presented.
The rest of the day is yours — shopping in Thamel, a massage, and a team dinner in the evening, which after two months together tends to run long. Overnight in Kathmandu.
51Day 51Departure from Nepal
Departure from Nepal
The expedition ends today. If your flight is a late one there is time for a last morning in Kathmandu, though most people at this point want a chair and a coffee more than a temple.
Our representative collects you from the hotel and drives you to Tribhuvan International Airport about three hours before departure. Any equipment being shipped home rather than carried is handled by our office.
Safe travels. Whether or not the summit came, fifty-one days on Everest changes how a person thinks about mountains, and we would be glad to see you back — Lhotse and Makalu are the two our returning Everest climbers ask about most.
Inclusions & Exclusions
Lukla flights, airport transfers, Kathmandu hotel nights, teahouse and full expedition camp accommodation at every camp, three meals a day throughout, the Department of Tourism royalty, park and municipality permits, Icefall Doctor and route-fixing fees, an expedition leader and liaison officer, a dedicated climbing Sherpa per client, seven bottles of oxygen with mask and regulator, base camp medical provision, satellite weather forecasts and communications are included, while international flights, visa, 8,000 m mountaineering insurance, personal technical equipment, city meals, additional oxygen, summit bonus and tips are not.
What's Included
Airport pickup and drop-off services in Kathmandu.
Round-trip flight between Kathmandu and Lukla, including the road transfer to and from Manthali in Ramechhap when the flights are operating from there in peak season.
Private airport and hotel transfers in Kathmandu.
Four nights of accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast.
Accommodation in local teahouses on the approach and the walk out.
Full expedition base camp at 5,364 m with individual sleeping tents, heated dining tent, kitchen, storage, communications, toilet and shower tents, plus stocked and staffed Camp 1 (6,065 m), Camp 2 (6,400 m), Camp 3 (7,200 m) and Camp 4 on the South Col (7,950 m).
Three meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) throughout the trip.
Department of Tourism Everest climbing royalty and permit, Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit, and the Icefall Doctor and route-fixing contributions.
Government-licensed expedition leader and a liaison officer, with all their equipment, wages and insurance.
One dedicated high-altitude climbing Sherpa per climber from base camp to the summit, carrying his own oxygen, with all equipment, wages, insurance and summit allowance.
Seven 4-litre bottles of supplementary oxygen per climber, with a Summit mask and regulator, used from Camp 3 upward.
Group climbing equipment: fixed and main ropes, snow bars, ice screws, and anchors.
Garbage deposit and the Department of Tourism waste-management fee.
Group map, and a comprehensive first aid kit carried by the guide.
Full-time cook and kitchen crew at base camp for the duration of the expedition, with three hot meals a day, and high-altitude food and fuel at every camp above.
Icefall ladder and fixed-rope training at base camp before the first rotation.
Two full acclimatisation rotations, and a recovery descent to Pheriche with lodge accommodation.
Daily specialist mountain weather forecasts and a base camp communications tent with satellite internet.
Base camp solar power and charging throughout the expedition.
A Gamow hyperbaric bag, expedition medical kit and emergency oxygen at base camp.
A puja ceremony at base camp before the team enters the Icefall.
Yak, porter and helicopter cargo transport of all expedition equipment between Kathmandu and base camp.
Summit certificate issued after a successful ascent.
All government taxes, permit fees, and service charges.
What's Excluded
International flight tickets to and from Nepal.
Nepal entry visa fees.
Travel insurance covering mountaineering to the height of this peak, including emergency helicopter evacuation and repatriation.
Personal climbing equipment — harness, crampons, ice axe, ascender, descender, helmet and carabiners (available to rent as an add-on).
Personal trekking equipment and clothing, including boots and a sleeping bag.
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
Snacks, bottled water, hot showers, Wi-Fi, charging fees, and alcoholic or soft drinks.
Personal technical equipment — down suit, boots, harness, crampons, axe, ascender, belay device and screwgates.
Additional oxygen bottles beyond the seven included, refundable in full if unused.
Personal satellite communication devices and airtime.
Helicopter transfers taken for personal convenience rather than medical necessity.
Personal expenses such as laundry, phone calls, and souvenirs.
Summit bonus for your climbing Sherpa, and tips for the expedition leader, base camp crew, cook staff and porters.
Any additional accommodation, transport or expenses caused by weather, an attempt abandoned for conditions, a route closure, or an early descent from the mountain.
Route Map
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Altitude Profile
Pricing
Transparent per-person pricing based on group size, covering the services listed in the itinerary with no hidden charges.
Add-ons
Customize your expedition with optional services such as porter support, climbing equipment rental and other personalized arrangements at an additional cost.
Best Time to Climb
April and May, and effectively nothing else. The pre-monsoon season is when the Icefall Doctors fix the route through the Icefall, when the commercial and Sherpa teams fix rope to the summit, and when the jet stream lifts far enough off the mountain to give summit windows. The usable windows almost always fall between 10 and 25 May, and a season may offer three or four of them.
Autumn ascents from the south are now vanishingly rare — the route is not fixed, the Icefall is more broken after the monsoon, and the weather windows are shorter and colder. Winter ascents are the province of a handful of specialists. Our expeditions run in spring only, arriving at base camp in the first week of April so the team has the full acclimatisation period before the windows open.
Climb Difficulty & the Route
Technically the South Col route is around AD; in every other respect it is extreme. The route runs from base camp (5,364 m) through the Khumbu Icefall — a moving jumble of seracs and crevasses crossed on ladders, the most objectively dangerous ground on the mountain — to Camp 1 (6,065 m) and up the Western Cwm to Camp 2 (6,400 m).
Above Camp 2 the Lhotse Face rises as 1,000 m of hard blue ice at 40 to 50 degrees, climbed on fixed rope to Camp 3 (7,200 m). Then the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur to the South Col (7,950 m), and the summit day: the Triangular Face, the Balcony, the South Summit, the Hillary Step and the final ridge. Ten to fourteen hours to the top from the Col, on oxygen, at temperatures that reach -30°C before wind chill.
The rope techniques used on the climb are explained step by step in our guide to fixed rope and jumar skills.
Experience Required
We require a previous 8,000 m summit, or a 7,000 m summit plus substantial technical Himalayan experience — Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Himlung or equivalent. You must be competent on fixed rope with a jumar for hours at a time, comfortable on ladders over crevasses, able to abseil while exhausted, and experienced with an oxygen mask and regulator.
We will ask for a climbing CV and we decline applications that do not meet the standard. This is not gatekeeping for its own sake: a climber who is slow on the Lhotse Face endangers their Sherpa, their team and the fixed-rope traffic behind them. The honest progression is a 6,000 m technical peak, then Manaslu or Himlung at 7,000 m or 8,000 m, and then this.
Oxygen, Sherpa Support and Safety
Your package includes seven 4-litre bottles of supplementary oxygen per climber, a Summit mask and regulator, and a dedicated climbing Sherpa carrying his own oxygen from base camp to the summit and back. Bottles are used from Camp 3 upward, and additional bottles can be added at booking and are refunded in full if unused.
Base camp holds a Gamow bag, a full expedition medical kit and emergency oxygen, and we retain a doctor at base camp on our larger departures. Every climber carries a personal locator and radios to base camp at set times. Our leader's authority to turn a climber round is absolute and is not subject to appeal on the mountain, and no member of our staff receives a summit-contingent bonus that could bias that decision.
Packing List & Personal Equipment
An 8,000 m down suit, triple boots rated for 8,000 m, technical crampons, a lightweight ice axe, a -40°C sleeping bag, two insulated mats, expedition mitts and a spare pair, a face mask or balaclava, category 4 glacier glasses and double-lens goggles, and two headlamps with lithium batteries.
We supply all group ropes, ladders, anchors and camp equipment, the oxygen system, and the tents at every camp. Climbers bring their own harness, crampons, axe, ascender, belay device and screwgates. A full personal kit list, with the specific models our leaders recommend and what can sensibly be hired in Kathmandu, is sent when you book.
Frequently Asked Questions
Find quick answers to common questions about the Everest Expedition.
1How much oxygen is included and what if I need more?
Seven 4-litre bottles per climber, plus a Summit mask and regulator, and a dedicated Sherpa carrying his own supply. That is enough for a normal ascent from Camp 3 with a comfortable margin. Extra bottles can be added at booking and are refunded in full if unused — we would much rather they came back down full.
2How dangerous is the Khumbu Icefall?
It is the most objectively hazardous ground on the route and it cannot be made safe, only managed. The Icefall Doctors fix and maintain the ladders, and we cross it in the cold hours before dawn when the ice is least active, keep the number of crossings to the minimum the rotation plan allows, and never stop in the exposed sections.
3Why descend to Pheriche in the middle of the expedition?
Because recovery does not happen at 5,364 m. A week at 4,371 m in thicker air, eating properly and sleeping, rebuilds a climber more effectively than any number of rest days at base camp. It costs three days of schedule and it is one of the highest-return decisions in the whole plan.
4What is the summit success rate?
Across recent seasons roughly 65 to 75 percent of our clients who begin the summit push reach the top, with essentially all turn-backs happening at the Balcony or the South Summit on the leader's call. We measure success as climbers returning to base camp uninjured, and on that measure the number is what matters.
5What are the base camp facilities like?
A heated dining tent, individual sleeping tents, a kitchen with a full-time cook crew, toilet and shower tents, solar power and charging, satellite internet, and a communications tent with daily weather forecasts. It is a small village and you will live in it for about six weeks.
6How is the summit window decided?
From dedicated forecasts bought from a specialist mountain forecasting service, cross-checked against what the other teams are seeing, and read against the traffic on the fixed ropes. Your leader looks for wind under about 30 km/h at 8,000 m across a two to three day span, and will let a marginal window go if a better one is behind it.
7What is the traffic like on summit day?
Real, and it is planned around rather than ignored. We aim to depart the South Col outside the main push where the forecast allows, and our leader will use a reserve day to sit out a crowded window rather than queue at the Hillary Step. The reserve days exist for this as much as for weather.
8Do you use a helicopter to base camp or between camps?
Not for climbers. The walk in is the acclimatisation and skipping it would undermine the whole expedition. Helicopters are used for cargo where it is legal and appropriate, and for medical evacuation. Some operators fly clients over the Icefall; we do not, because a climber who has not crossed it cannot descend through it in an emergency.
9What happens if I have to turn back?
You descend with your dedicated Sherpa while the rest of the team continues — which is precisely why the ratio is one to one. The expedition is not compromised and nobody else's climb ends. Turning back is a normal outcome on this mountain and it is treated as one.
10What is the payment and refund position if the mountain closes?
The Department of Tourism royalty and the Icefall Doctor fees are paid in advance and are non-refundable to us, so they are non-refundable to you. Everything else — staff, food, oxygen, logistics — is refunded pro rata if a season is cancelled before it begins. We set this out in writing at booking rather than in a clause.
Gallery
Explore authentic moments, camps and summit views from the Everest Expedition.
Trekking Guides & Articles
Everest Expedition Guide: What Climbing the South Col Route Involves — Fifty days, the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, the Lhotse Face and the South Col — how a commercial Everest expedition actually works, what it costs.
The Eight-Thousanders of Nepal: All Eight Explained — Eight of the world's fourteen 8,000 m peaks are in Nepal.
Lhotse Expedition: The Complete Guide — The fourth-highest mountain on earth and the quietest 8,000 m peak in Nepal.
Annapurna I Expedition: The Complete Guide — The first 8,000 m peak ever climbed, and by a wide margin the most dangerous of the fourteen.
Makalu Expedition: The Complete Guide — The fifth-highest mountain on earth and the hardest of Nepal's 8,000 m peaks by its normal route.
Manaslu Expedition Guide: The Standard First Eight-Thousander — 8,163 m in Gorkha, climbed in autumn, and the peak most climbers use as their step from 7,000 m to Everest.
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Guest Reviews
Exceeded every expectation
“Climbing Everest Expedition had been on my list for years and it honestly exceeded everything I imagined. The sherpa team worked unbelievably hard, from fixing ropes to keeping the camp warm and well ...
Piotr Kim
Get in Touch
Tell us the dates you have in mind and roughly what you want out of the trek — one of our guides will reply, usually within 24 hours.
Email Us
info@greencompasstreks.com
Call Us
+977 9864379436
Office
Lakeside, Pokhara, Nepal
Office Hours
Sunday – Friday, 9:00 AM – 9:00 PM
Additional Bottled Oxygen
$715 $650/bottle
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