Chulu Far East (6,059 m) is the most approachable of the three Chulu summits and the best first 6,000 m peak on the Annapurna side of Nepal.
It is graded PD — a straightforward glacier and a snow slope of 35 to 40 degrees with a short fixed section near the top — and it is reached from a base camp a single day above Ngawal on the Annapurna Circuit high route. The whole trip runs to sixteen days, exits back down the Marsyangdi by jeep rather than over the Thorong La, and costs meaningfully less than its neighbours.
What it does not compromise on is the summit view, which is the same one Chulu West and Chulu East pay more for: the Annapurna range at eye level across a valley two kilometres deep, with Manaslu east, Dhaulagiri west and the Tibetan plateau running north.
The Climb at a Glance
| Summit | 6,059 m |
| Grade | PD — short glacier, 35–40° slope, brief fixed section |
| Duration | 16 days Kathmandu to Kathmandu |
| Base camp / high camp | 4,650 m / 5,240 m |
| Summit success rate | Around 85 to 90 percent — the highest we run in the region |
| Best seasons | March to May, September to November |
| Permits | NMA climbing permit, ACAP and TIMS — all included |
| Price | From USD 2,750 per person |
We run it as a 16-day expedition. When you want the step up, Chulu West is PD+ and Chulu East is AD-.
Why It Is the Right First 6,000 m Peak
Almost everything about this trip is designed to give a first-time Himalayan climber the best possible chance.
- A short, lightly crevassed glacier — under an hour to cross, roped as a team on a marked line.
- A 35 to 40 degree slope rather than the 45 to 50 of its neighbours.
- A brief fixed section near the top, laid by the climbing Sherpas.
- A broad summit with no corniced crest to negotiate.
- The Annapurna Circuit approach, which walks you up gradually over five days before base camp.
- A full training day at base camp on crampons, ice axe, rope-team travel, fixed-line ascent and abseiling.
The result is an 85 to 90 percent success rate, the highest of any 6,000 m peak we run in the Annapurna region. Read the beginner's guide and the gear list before you book.
The Route
Dharapani to Ngawal (1,860 m to 3,660 m)
Jeep to Dharapani, then Chame, Upper Pisang and the high route past Ghyaru to Ngawal (3,660 m), with an acclimatisation day. The high route is the better of the two Circuit options and is the reason to do this trip even if you never reach the summit.
Base camp, high camp and the summit (4,650 m to 6,059 m)
A day's climb into a side valley above Ngawal to base camp at 4,650 m, a full training day, then high camp at 5,240 m on the moraine below the glacier. Summit day is a pre-dawn start: the glacier crossing, the slope, the short fixed section and a broad summit.
The exit
Back down to Upper Pisang and Chame, then a jeep to Besisahar and Kathmandu. This trip does not cross the Thorong La, which is what keeps it to sixteen days and keeps the price down.
What It Costs
| Group size | Price per person |
|---|---|
| 1 climber | USD 3,360 |
| 2 to 4 | USD 3,110 |
| 5 to 7 | USD 2,940 |
| 8 to 10 | USD 2,860 |
| 11 to 14 | USD 2,790 |
| 15 and over | USD 2,750 |
It is the cheapest 6,000 m peak we run in the Annapurna region, and the saving comes from three fewer days and no Jomsom flight rather than from cutting the climbing support.
What Is Included
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu, plus a climbing briefing, permit and equipment-check day.
- Private jeep Kathmandu to Dharapani, and Chame to Besisahar and Kathmandu at the end.
- Two nights in Kathmandu with breakfast, and teahouses on the approach and walk out.
- Tented base camp (4,650 m) and high camp (5,240 m) with mess, kitchen and toilet tents, and a cook and kitchen crew.
- Three meals a day throughout.
- NMA climbing permit for Chulu Far East, ACAP and TIMS.
- A government-licensed climbing guide and one climbing Sherpa per two climbers above base camp.
- Group climbing equipment — fixed and main ropes, snow bars, ice screws and anchors — and fixing of the steep section below the summit.
- A full training day at base camp.
- Porter and pack-animal transport from Ngawal to base camp, NMA garbage deposit, summit certificate and all taxes.
What Is Not Included
- International flights and the Nepal entry visa fee.
- Travel insurance covering mountaineering to 6,059 m, with helicopter evacuation and repatriation.
- Personal climbing equipment — harness, crampons, ice axe, ascender, descender, helmet and carabiners. Available to rent as an add-on.
- Personal trekking equipment and clothing, including boots and a sleeping bag.
- Porter services for your personal duffel.
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
- Snacks, bottled water, hot showers, Wi-Fi, charging and drinks.
- Laundry, phone calls, souvenirs and personal expenses.
- Tips for the guide, climbing Sherpas, porters and support staff.
- Extra accommodation or transport caused by weather, flight delays or an early descent.
Double boots are recommended but not essential here — a warm four-season boot that takes a semi-automatic crampon will do on this peak, which is not true of its neighbours.
