Green Compass Treks
Pisang Peak Climbing: The Complete Guide — Green Compass Treks
Pisang PeakPeak ClimbingAnnapurna Region6000m PeaksThorong La

Pisang Peak Climbing: The Complete Guide

BBishowSaturday, September 19, 20264 min read

Pisang Peak (6,091 m) rises straight out of the village it is named after, a clean pyramid of snow above the Marsyangdi that every trekker on the Annapurna Circuit walks beneath.

It looks simple from the trail and it is not: the upper section is a steep snow and ice slope at 45 to 50 degrees that narrows to a short exposed ridge, and it turns back more parties than its modest height suggests. That combination — an easy approach and a genuinely steep finish — makes it an unusually good peak.

You reach base camp on the second day of walking, the whole climb is done inside a week of leaving the road, and the summit day is a real one. The itinerary then goes on to walk the best part of the Annapurna Circuit, over the Thorong La to Muktinath and Jomsom, so the climb sits inside one of the classic treks in Nepal rather than replacing it.

Lateral moraines below Pisang Peak, Annapurna region, Nepal.
Pisang Peak behind the moraines. From the village trail below, the pyramid looks far more straightforward than it climbs.

The Climb at a Glance

Summit6,091 m
The climbingA ridge and slope throughout — no glacier, no crevasse risk
The cruxThe upper 300 m at 45–50°, narrowing to an exposed ridge
Duration18 days Kathmandu to Kathmandu
Base camp / high camp4,380 m / 5,400 m
Summit success rateAround 65 to 75 percent on our departures
PermitsNMA climbing permit, ACAP and TIMS — all included
PriceFrom USD 2,950 per person

We run it as an 18-day expedition. It pairs well with the Chulu group for a two-peak trip off one acclimatisation.

The Route

Dharapani to base camp (1,860 m to 4,380 m)

Jeep to Dharapani, then Chame and Upper Pisang — only two walking days before you turn off the Circuit and climb four hours to base camp on the kharka directly above Pisang village. That speed is the trip's great convenience and its main weakness.

Acclimatisation and training (4,380 m)

Two nights at base camp with a full training day: crampons, ice axe, self-arrest, fixed-line ascent, abseil and rope-team technique. Self-arrest matters more here than on most peaks — a 50 degree slope is where it counts.

High camp and the summit (5,400 m to 6,091 m)

High camp at 5,400 m, then a pre-dawn start. The lower two-thirds are a walk in crampons. The last 300 m are 45 to 50 degrees on fixed rope, narrowing to a short exposed ridge fixed by the climbing Sherpas ahead of the push.

There is no glacier on this route, which is one of its attractions — a ridge and a slope throughout, with no crevasse risk and no roped glacier travel.

Panorama of the Annapurna massif from the Manang side, Nepal.
The Annapurna massif from the summit ridge — the reward for the steep finish.

The Circuit and the Thorong La

Down to Manang with a rest and acclimatisation day, then Yak Kharka, Thorong Phedi and over the Thorong La (5,416 m) to Muktinath and Jomsom, with a flight to Pokhara.

The Acclimatisation Question

We are upfront about this: the fast approach is the weakest part of the itinerary. You reach 4,380 m on the fourth day of walking, which is quicker than ideal.

What we build in to manage it:

  • Two nights at base camp at 4,380 m rather than one.
  • A full acclimatisation and training day there, which doubles as a climb-high, sleep-low day.
  • A reserve day at base camp after the summit push.
  • The Thorong La afterwards rather than before — crossing the pass first would help acclimatisation but would add a week and reverse the trip's logic.

If you are at all prone to altitude problems, the Chulu peaks have a materially better profile. Read our altitude guide first.

What It Costs

Group sizePrice per person
1 climberUSD 3,600
2 to 4USD 3,330
5 to 7USD 3,160
8 to 10USD 3,070
11 to 14USD 2,990
15 and overUSD 2,950
Per person, Kathmandu to Kathmandu, including the NMA permit, climbing staff, group technical equipment and the Jomsom flight.

What Is Included

  • Airport transfers in Kathmandu, plus a climbing briefing, permit and equipment-check day.
  • Private jeep Kathmandu to Dharapani, the Jomsom–Pokhara flight (jeep as the alternative), and Pokhara to Kathmandu.
  • Two nights in Kathmandu and one in Pokhara with breakfast; teahouses on the approach and walk out.
  • Tented base camp (4,380 m) and high camp (5,400 m) with mess, kitchen and toilet tents, and a cook and kitchen crew.
  • Three meals a day throughout.
  • NMA climbing permit for Pisang Peak, ACAP and TIMS.
  • A government-licensed climbing guide and one climbing Sherpa per two climbers above base camp.
  • Group climbing equipment, and fixing of the upper slope and summit ridge ahead of the summit push.
  • A full training day covering crampons, ice axe, self-arrest, fixed-line ascent, abseil and rope-team technique.
  • Porter and pack-animal transport from Pisang to base camp, NMA garbage deposit, summit certificate and all taxes.

What Is Not Included

  • International flights and the Nepal entry visa fee.
  • Travel insurance covering mountaineering to 6,091 m, with helicopter evacuation and repatriation.
  • Personal climbing equipment — harness, crampons, ice axe, ascender, descender, helmet and carabiners. Available to rent.
  • Personal trekking equipment and clothing, including boots and a sleeping bag.
  • Porter services for your personal duffel.
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu and Pokhara.
  • Snacks, bottled water, hot showers, Wi-Fi, charging and drinks.
  • Laundry, phone calls, souvenirs and personal expenses.
  • Tips for the guide, climbing Sherpas, porters and support staff.
  • Extra accommodation or transport caused by weather, flight delays or an early descent.

Frequently Asked Questions

1
Pisang Peak looks easy from the trail. Is it?

No, and that is the standing joke about it in Manang. The lower two-thirds are a walk in crampons; the last 300 m are 45 to 50 degrees on fixed rope, narrowing to a short exposed ridge. It turns back more parties than its modest height suggests.

2
How does Pisang Peak compare with Island Peak?

Similar in grade and about 100 m lower, with a comparable steep section — Island Peak's headwall is 100 m of ice, Pisang's is a longer 300 m slope. The big difference is that Pisang has no glacier and no crevasse risk, which some climbers much prefer.

3
Is the acclimatisation adequate given the fast approach?

It is the weakest part of the itinerary and we build around it — two nights at base camp at 4,380 m, an acclimatisation and training day there, and a reserve day after the summit push. If you are prone to altitude problems, the Chulu peaks have a better profile.

4
Is there a glacier to cross on Pisang Peak?

No, and it is one of the peak's attractions. The route is a ridge and a slope throughout, with no crevasse risk and no roped glacier travel. The training day focuses on self-arrest and fixed-line technique instead.

5
Where are base camp and high camp?

Base camp at around 4,380 m on the kharka directly above Pisang village, reached in four hours from the lodges, and high camp at 5,400 m. Both are tented with mess, kitchen and toilet tents and a cook crew.

6
What is the summit success rate?

Around 65 to 75 percent on our departures. The steep upper slope and the short acclimatisation window are the two limiting factors, in that order. Weather on the exposed summit ridge is the third.

7
Why is the Thorong La after the climb rather than before?

Because crossing a 5,416 m pass before the peak would help the acclimatisation but would add a week to the trip and reverse its logic. The climb is done inside a week of leaving the road; the Circuit is the reward afterwards rather than the preparation.

8
Can Pisang Peak be combined with a Chulu?

Yes, and it makes a strong two-peak trip — Pisang first from the village, then the Chulu group from Ngawal a few days later off the same acclimatisation. Each peak needs its own NMA permit, so plan it at the booking stage.

Contact Us

Get in Touch

Tell us the dates you have in mind and roughly what you want out of the trek — one of our guides will reply, usually within 24 hours.

Email Us

info@greencompasstreks.com

Call Us

+977 9864379436

Office

Lakeside, Pokhara, Nepal

Office Hours

Sunday – Friday, 9:00 AM – 9:00 PM

Send us a message

Fill in your details below and we'll reach out as soon as possible.

Keep Reading

More guides to help you plan your trip.

Chulu West Peak Climbing: The Complete Guide
Chulu WestPeak Climbing5 min read

Chulu West Peak Climbing: The Complete Guide

The best 6,000 m peak on the Annapurna side of Nepal, and the one most people have never heard of. A PD+ climb built inside the Annapurna Circuit — high route to Ngawal, the summit at 6,419 m, then out over the Thorong La.

Bishow•
Read More →