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Annapurna South Expedition: The Complete Guide — Green Compass Treks
Annapurna SouthExpeditionAnnapurna SanctuaryGrade D7000m Peaks

Annapurna South Expedition: The Complete Guide

BBishowSaturday, September 19, 20264 min read

Annapurna South (7,219 m) is the mountain that closes the western side of the Annapurna Sanctuary, and the one that fills the view from Ghandruk and Pokhara on a clear morning.

It was first climbed in 1964 by a Japanese team, and it has been climbed remarkably little since — a handful of expeditions in most decades, and long stretches with none at all.

The route is graded D: a heavily crevassed glacier, sustained ice at 50 to 55 degrees, and a long corniced summit ridge, with base camp inside the Sanctuary beneath the three-thousand-metre south face of Annapurna I. It is a hard, quiet, seldom-attempted 7,000 m peak in a place that thousands of trekkers walk through every season without ever looking up at it as an objective.

The trail towards Machhapuchhre Base Camp in the Annapurna Sanctuary, Nepal.
The Sanctuary approach. Thousands walk it each season; the peaks above it are almost never climbed.

The Expedition at a Glance

Summit7,219 m
GradeD — crevassed glacier, 50–55° ice, long corniced summit ridge
Duration30 days Kathmandu to Kathmandu
CampsBase camp 4,200 m, Camp 1 5,300 m, Camp 2 6,100 m, high camp 6,600 m
Summit success rateUnder half of attempts
DeparturesAt most one a season
First ascent1964, Japanese team
PriceFrom USD 21,500 per person

We run it as a 30-day expedition. Singu Chuli is the hard trekking peak in the same Sanctuary, and Gangapurna the comparable objective on the northern side.

The Route

The Sanctuary approach (1,940 m to 4,130 m)

Drive to Pokhara and Siwai, then the classic Annapurna Base Camp walk: Ghandruk, Chomrong, Bamboo, Deurali, Machhapuchhre Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp (4,130 m).

The section between Dovan and Deurali is genuine avalanche terrain after heavy snow, and there are two or three places your guide will cross quickly and without stopping. Conditions are checked with lodges higher up the valley each day.

Base camp, assessment and rotation (4,200 m to 5,300 m)

Base camp at 4,200 m a short distance beyond ABC, a puja, a technical assessment and training day, an acclimatisation day, and a full rotation to Camp 1 (5,300 m) and back with two rest days.

The summit push (5,300 m to 7,219 m)

Base camp to Camp 1, Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6,100 m), Camp 2 to a high camp at 6,600 m, and then the summit day on the crevassed glacier, the sustained ice and the long corniced crest.

Annapurna South and Hiunchuli from the Annapurna region, Nepal.
Annapurna South and Hiunchuli. The route climbs the Sanctuary side of the massif.

Who We Take, and How Often We Go

At most one departure a season, and we are willing to cancel it if conditions are wrong or if the party that assembles is not strong enough. On a grade D route with no other team in the Sanctuary, an under-strength party is a safety problem.

The success rate is low and hard to quote meaningfully given how few attempts there are — under half of the expeditions that go for it summit. Conditions on the face and time on the ridge account for the rest.

If you want a hard objective in the Sanctuary but not a full expedition, Singu Chuli is grade D on an NMA permit and 718 m lower.

What It Costs

Group sizePrice per person
1 climberUSD 26,230
2 to 4USD 24,290
5 to 7USD 23,010
8 to 10USD 22,360
11 to 14USD 21,820
15 and overUSD 21,500
Per person, Kathmandu to Kathmandu, including the royalty permit, all camps, the rotation, rope fixing and climbing staff.

What Is Included

  • Airport transfers, a climbing briefing, permits and an equipment check in Kathmandu.
  • Transport Kathmandu–Pokhara–Siwai and back.
  • Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu and Pokhara with breakfast, and teahouses on the Sanctuary approach.
  • Base camp (4,200 m), Camp 1, Camp 2 and a high camp, with mess, kitchen, storage and toilet tents.
  • A cook and kitchen crew, and all meals throughout the expedition.
  • Annapurna South royalty permit and the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit, plus liaison arrangements.
  • An expedition leader, climbing Sherpas and high-altitude staff.
  • Progressive rope fixing of the whole route by our own Sherpa team.
  • A puja, a technical assessment and training day, an acclimatisation rotation and reserve days.
  • Emergency oxygen with masks and regulators at the high camps and base camp, garbage deposit, summit certificate and all taxes.

What Is Not Included

  • International flights and the Nepal entry visa fee.
  • Expedition insurance valid to 7,300 m with helicopter evacuation and repatriation.
  • Personal climbing equipment, double boots and a bag rated to -30 °C.
  • Personal porter services.
  • Meals in Kathmandu and Pokhara beyond breakfast.
  • Snacks, bottled water, hot showers, Wi-Fi, charging and drinks.
  • Laundry, phone calls, souvenirs and personal expenses.
  • Summit bonus and tips for the climbing Sherpas and high-altitude staff.
  • Extra costs arising from a cancelled departure, weather or an early descent.

Frequently Asked Questions

1
Is this the mountain visible from Pokhara?

It is the one that dominates the view from Ghandruk and is prominent from Pokhara on a clear morning, immediately west of Machhapuchhre's fishtail. Thousands of trekkers walk beneath it each season without considering it as an objective.

2
How does Annapurna South compare with Tilicho Peak?

Harder. Tilicho is AD+ with a wind problem; Annapurna South is grade D with sustained 50 to 55 degree ice, a heavily crevassed glacier and a longer corniced ridge, though it is 85 m lower.

3
What is the summit success rate?

Low and hard to quote meaningfully given how few attempts there are — under half of the expeditions that go for it summit. Conditions on the face and time on the ridge account for most of the difference.

4
Is supplementary oxygen used?

No. Annapurna South is within the range a fit acclimatised climber handles without it. We carry emergency oxygen with masks and regulators at the high camps and base camp for medical use.

5
How many camps are there above base camp?

Three — Camp 1 at around 5,300 m, Camp 2 at 6,100 m and a high camp at 6,600 m. The expedition runs one full rotation through Camp 1 before the summit push, and the Sherpas fix the route in stages.

6
How dangerous is the gorge approach?

The section between Dovan and Deurali is genuine avalanche terrain after heavy snow, and there are two or three places the guide will cross quickly and without stopping. Conditions are checked with lodges higher up the valley each day.

7
Do you run fixed departures?

At most one a season, and we are willing to cancel it if conditions are wrong or if the party that assembles is not strong enough. On a grade D route with no other team in the Sanctuary, that judgement matters more than the calendar.

8
What is base camp like?

At around 4,200 m a short distance beyond Annapurna Base Camp, on the moraine inside the Sanctuary beneath the three-thousand-metre south face of Annapurna I. It is a full expedition camp with mess, kitchen, storage and toilet tents.

Contact Us

Get in Touch

Tell us the dates you have in mind and roughly what you want out of the trek — one of our guides will reply, usually within 24 hours.

Email Us

info@greencompasstreks.com

Call Us

+977 9864379436

Office

Lakeside, Pokhara, Nepal

Office Hours

Sunday – Friday, 9:00 AM – 9:00 PM

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