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Larkya Peak Climbing: The Complete Guide — Green Compass Treks
Larkya PeakPeak ClimbingManaslu RegionLarkya LaPD+ Grade

Larkya Peak Climbing: The Complete Guide

BBishowSaturday, September 19, 20264 min read

Larkya Peak (6,249 m) stands directly above the Larkya La, the 5,106 m pass that every Manaslu Circuit trekker crosses on the way from the Nubri to the Marsyangdi. Thousands of people walk beneath it each season and almost nobody climbs it, which is a shame — it is a clean snow and ice route graded PD+, and its summit is the single best viewpoint of the crossing.

The trip is the Manaslu Circuit with a 6,000 m summit at its high point. A week up the Budhi Gandaki gorge from subtropical rice terraces to the Tibetan villages of Samagaon and Samdo, a base camp beneath the pass, the climb, and then the Larkya La itself and the long descent to Bimthang.

From the top: Manaslu, Himlung, Cheo Himal, Kang Guru and Annapurna II, with the pass a thin line of prayer flags a thousand metres below.

A mountaineer on the Larke pass, Manaslu region, Nepal.
The Larkya La. The peak stands directly above it, and you cross the pass the day after looking down on it.

The Climb at a Glance

Summit6,249 m
GradePD+ — crevassed glacier, snow and ice slope, short exposed crest
Duration21 days Kathmandu to Kathmandu — no flight
Base camp / high camp4,900 m / 5,600 m
Summit success rateAround 70 to 80 percent
PermitsManaslu restricted area — guide compulsory, minimum two trekkers
Also includesThe full Manaslu Circuit and the Larkya La
PriceFrom USD 3,750 per person

We run it as a 21-day expedition. Samdo Peak is the gentler option from the same valley, and the two combine.

Larkya Peak or Samdo Peak?

Samdo PeakLarkya Peak
Summit6,335 m6,249 m
GradePDPD+
The climbingShort glacier, 35–40° slope, broad crestCrevassed glacier, steeper slope, short exposed crest
Success rate80–85%70–80%
Base campNorth of SamdoAbove Dharamsala, beneath the pass
FromUSD 3,650USD 3,750

A step harder and 86 m lower. Samdo Peak is a PD snow slope to a broad crest; Larkya Peak adds a crevassed glacier, a slightly steeper slope and a short exposed summit crest — twenty minutes or so, climbed one at a time on rope, and genuinely airy. That crest is what makes it PD+ rather than PD.

The Route

Machha Khola to Samdo (930 m to 3,875 m)

The same superb week up the Budhi Gandaki as the Circuit — Jagat, Deng, Namrung, Lho, Samagaon and Samdo, with acclimatisation days at both of the last two. Ten days of walking before base camp.

Base camp and the summit (4,900 m to 6,249 m)

Up to Dharamsala (4,460 m) and then base camp at 4,900 m on the moraine above it, with a training and acclimatisation day. High camp at 5,600 m at the edge of the glacier, and the summit day: the crevassed approach, the fixed slope, and the exposed crest.

Wind at the head of the Nubri is the commonest reason for turning back — base camp and the summit crest are both fully exposed to it.

The Larkya glacier lake and Himalayan panorama near the Larke pass, Nepal.
Glacier country below the Larkya La — the ground base camp and high camp sit on.

The pass and the descent

The day after the summit push, the group crosses the Larkya La itself and descends 1,500 m to Bimthang. Crossing a pass you stood a thousand metres above the previous day is one of the quiet pleasures of the trip; trekkers on the pass will not know the peak has a route.

What It Costs

Group sizePrice per person
1 climberUSD 4,580
2 to 4USD 4,240
5 to 7USD 4,010
8 to 10USD 3,900
11 to 14USD 3,810
15 and overUSD 3,750
Per person, Kathmandu to Kathmandu, including the Manaslu restricted-area permit, the NMA climbing permit, climbing staff and technical equipment.

What Is Included

  • Airport transfers, a briefing, permit and equipment-inspection day in Kathmandu.
  • Private transport Kathmandu to Machha Khola and Besisahar back to Kathmandu — no flight.
  • Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast, and teahouses throughout the Circuit.
  • Tented base camp (4,900 m) and high camp (5,600 m) with mess, kitchen and toilet tents, and a cook and kitchen crew.
  • Three meals a day throughout.
  • Manaslu Restricted Area Permit, Manaslu Conservation Area Permit, Annapurna Conservation Area Permit and the NMA climbing permit.
  • A government-licensed climbing guide and climbing Sherpas above base camp.
  • Group climbing equipment and fixing of the slope and the summit crest.
  • A training and acclimatisation day at base camp, plus a reserve day.
  • Porter and pack-animal transport, NMA garbage deposit, summit certificate and all taxes.

What Is Not Included

  • International flights and the Nepal entry visa fee.
  • Travel insurance covering mountaineering to 6,249 m, with helicopter evacuation and repatriation.
  • Personal climbing equipment, available to rent as an add-on.
  • Personal clothing and a sleeping bag rated to -20 °C.
  • Porter services for your personal duffel.
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Snacks, bottled water, hot showers, Wi-Fi, charging and drinks.
  • Laundry, phone calls, souvenirs and personal expenses.
  • Tips for the guide, climbing Sherpas, cook crew and porters.
  • Extra costs if the Larkya La is closed and the group retraces down the Budhi Gandaki, adding three days.

Frequently Asked Questions

1
How does Larkya Peak compare with Samdo Peak?

A step harder and 86 m lower. Samdo Peak is a PD snow slope to a broad crest; Larkya Peak adds a crevassed glacier, a slightly steeper slope and a short exposed summit crest. Success rates are 80 to 85 percent against 70 to 80.

2
Do we walk the whole Manaslu Circuit?

Effectively yes — Machha Khola to Samagaon and Samdo up the Budhi Gandaki, then the Larkya La to Bimthang and down the Dudh Khola to Dharapani. The climb is inserted at the high point of the Circuit rather than replacing any of it.

3
Can you see the peak from the Larkya La?

It stands directly above the pass, and one of the pleasures of the trip is crossing the Larkya La the day after standing a thousand metres above it. Trekkers on the pass generally have no idea the peak has a route.

4
Why is a guide compulsory here?

Manaslu is a restricted area. A Manaslu Restricted Area Permit is required, it names a licensed guide, and it needs a minimum of two trekkers. That requirement has kept the valley far quieter than Annapurna or Everest.

5
What happens if the Larkya La is closed?

The group retraces down the Budhi Gandaki to the roadhead, which adds three days and means the second half of the Circuit is lost. It happens after heavy snow, perhaps one season in several, and it is excluded from the package price.

6
What is the summit success rate?

Around 70 to 80 percent on our departures. Wind at the head of the Nubri is the commonest reason for turning back — base camp and the summit crest are both fully exposed to it, and there is no sheltered alternative.

7
How exposed is the summit crest?

Enough that it is climbed one at a time on rope, and enough that it is what makes the peak PD+ rather than PD. It is short — twenty minutes or so — and it is genuinely airy, with the pass a thousand metres directly below.

8
Can Larkya Peak and Samdo Peak be combined?

Yes, and it is a natural two-peak trip since both are climbed from the upper Budhi Gandaki within a few days of each other, with Samdo Peak first as the warm-up. It adds about four days and each needs its own NMA permit.

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