Abi Peak (6,097 m) stands above the sacred lakes of Damodar Kunda in the Damodar Himal, and it is the most approachable summit on the Tibetan plateau behind Upper Mustang.
The climb is a straightforward PD — a short glacier, a snow slope of 35 to 40 degrees and a broad summit — which makes it a genuine first 6,000 m peak on an approach that is anything but ordinary.
That approach is the point. A week through the restricted area of Upper Mustang — the canyon country above Kagbeni, the red cliffs of Dhakmar, the walled city of Lo Manthang, the cave monastery at Luri — and then out east across bare plateau to the lakes, where Hindu pilgrims walk in summer and nobody at all comes in the climbing seasons.
The Climb at a Glance
| Summit | 6,097 m |
| Grade | PD — short glacier, 35–40° slope, broad summit dome |
| Duration | 24 days Kathmandu to Kathmandu |
| Base camp / high camp | 5,100 m / 5,600 m |
| Approach | Eight days from Jomsom through Upper Mustang |
| Summit success rate | Around 80 to 85 percent |
| Best seasons | May to June, September to October |
| Price | From USD 5,250 per person |
We run it as a 24-day expedition. Saribung Peak is the harder objective from the same plateau, and the Upper Mustang trek covers the approach alone.
The Approach Through Upper Mustang
Eight days of walking from Jomsom through the restricted area to Damodar Kunda. There is no shorter way in, and the length is not a cost of the trip so much as half of what you are buying.
- Kagbeni — the walled medieval village at the gate of the restricted area.
- Chele, Ghami and Charang — canyon country, eroded cliffs and the red walls of Dhakmar.
- Lo Manthang (3,840 m) — the walled capital of the Kingdom of Lo, with a full exploration day.
- Yara and Luri Gompa — a cave monastery cut into a cliff face.
- Damodar Kunda (4,890 m) — sacred lakes on the plateau, with an acclimatisation day.
Upper Mustang is a Tibetan cultural landscape almost untouched by the last fifty years. Read the Upper Mustang guide for the detail.
The Climb
From Damodar Kunda to base camp at 5,100 m on the moraine above the lakes, then high camp at 5,600 m below the glacier and the summit day: a short glacier, a 35 to 40 degree slope and a broad summit dome.
By the time you reach base camp you have been above 3,500 m for a week and above 4,300 m for several days, which is why the success rate is 80 to 85 percent on a peak that many people climb as their first.
Wind on the summit dome is the main reason for the turn-backs that occur. Days are warm in the sun and nights fall well below freezing from 4,300 m upward, with around -20 °C at the high camp.
Water, Wind and the Plateau
- There is very little water on the plateau, and what there is tends to be silty. The crew boils and treats everything. Carry two litres and drink four a day — the dry air dehydrates you faster than the exertion does.
- The wind gets up every day from late morning and does not stop. A buff and proper sunglasses are not optional.
- Horses can be hired in most Mustang villages for a day or a stage, which is both traditional and a good option if you are tired.
- Double boots are recommended but not essential given a high camp at 5,600 m, though the plateau is cold and dry and warm feet matter.
What It Costs
| Group size | Price per person |
|---|---|
| 1 climber | USD 6,410 |
| 2 to 4 | USD 5,930 |
| 5 to 7 | USD 5,620 |
| 8 to 10 | USD 5,460 |
| 11 to 14 | USD 5,330 |
| 15 and over | USD 5,250 |
The Upper Mustang permit is charged per person for a fixed ten-day period with a daily rate beyond it, and after logistics it is the largest single item in the trip cost. It is included.
What Is Included
- Airport transfers, a briefing, restricted-area permits and an equipment check in Kathmandu.
- Transport Kathmandu to Pokhara and the Pokhara–Jomsom flights.
- Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu and Pokhara with breakfast, and teahouses in Mustang.
- Full camping support on the plateau, with base camp (5,100 m) and high camp (5,600 m), mess, kitchen and toilet tents and a cook crew.
- Three meals a day throughout, with all water boiled and treated.
- Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit, the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit and the NMA climbing permit for Abi Peak.
- A government-licensed climbing guide and climbing Sherpas above base camp.
- Group climbing equipment and fixing of the steep section.
- A training and acclimatisation day, plus a reserve day.
- Pack-animal and porter transport, garbage deposit, summit certificate and all taxes.
What Is Not Included
- International flights and the Nepal entry visa fee.
- Travel insurance covering mountaineering to 6,097 m, with helicopter evacuation and repatriation.
- Personal climbing equipment, available to rent as an add-on.
- Personal clothing and a sleeping bag rated to -25 °C.
- Porter services for your personal duffel, and horse hire in the villages.
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu and Pokhara.
- Snacks, bottled water, hot showers, Wi-Fi, charging and drinks.
- Laundry, phone calls, souvenirs and personal expenses.
- Tips for the guide, climbing Sherpas, cook crew and porters.
- Extra accommodation or rescheduled flights caused by weather at Jomsom, or an early descent.
